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Rc car with clear coated custom lettering decals
Vinyl Decals Under Clear Coat

Vinyl Decals Under Clear Coat Vinyl Decals Under Clear Coat

what he said…cept…make sure that the person who cut the decals for you used Exterior Grade vinyl. Interior grade vinyl can actually gas-out when in sunlight. This can cause gasses under the clearcoat to push up and actually delaminate the clear from the vinyl making an ugly damn mess.

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John Jolley hobbyist – Port Saint John, Florida March 9, 2009

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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-27-2004, 10:48 AM Thread Starter

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cause rascus said I had to……… HELP ME FIX IT MOD………PM me with any questions you have…actually PM RASCUS hahhahaThe friction which results from ignorance can be reduced only by the spread of knowledge- NIKOLA TESLA Want to learn how to work on your bike? Check the “HOW TO” subsection of HELP ME FIX IT.

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A trick to use when using decals from a pro painter thats a very good friend of mine. (He’s gotten more best of show awards than nearly anyone except Barris possibly )When you put the stickers or whatever on (this also goes for shitty basecoats from cans) make your first few coats VERY light.

Just fog them on. Let them dry in between coats. Then put the wet coats on. If you do it RIGHT you wont need to sand of buff because it will have flowed out like glass. It’s not easy to get it that way but it can be done.

Bugs were my biggest problem doing it in a open garage.Here’s proof. I painted this in my garage and it has never been sanded or buffed or waxed for that matter. And these are old photos I scanned in my comp with a scanner I found in the TRASH!!! Trust me I ain’t shitting.

If you want it to look good do it right and no buffing is nessesary or needed. Buffing only gives you another way to fuck things up…. Granted it might look a tiny bit better but why chance it? Burn through on a edge and you start from scratch.

..Scroll down to the Yamaha RD 400 Daytona Spl. Decals made with cheap clear self adheasive got at Kinkos for less than $2. Made on my Dad’s laser printer from a photo I took with a Nikon pocket camera scanned into Dad’s comp then printed.

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I am about to paint my car with 2 stage paint. Base coat then clear coat. I understand that clearcoat actually aids in the stabilization of the base when applied within the manufacturers time frame (in this case clear may applied within 12 hours) My question is; Should I put my base coats on the car, then the stickers (decals), then the clear coat? What about the paint (base coat) under the stickers? It never comes into contact with the clear coat. Will it be OK? Should I put a thin coat of clear then my stickers, then more coats of clear? Hope you can help. Thanks!

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Hm…I’m not sure about Japanese factory methods, but as a pinstriper for the factory Harley-Davidson bikes (I handle certain kinds of custom projects, mostly concerned with the limited-edition Fat Boys) I’m privy to every aspect of the painting process.

When decals are laid over the gas tanks the base coats are already cleared and the clear is glossy. The decals are applied directly over the glossy cured clear to ensure maximum adhesion and then the entire tank is scuffed before re-clearing.

When the tanks come to me they don’t have decals on, I pinstripe them and send them off to the decal department. This method seems to work, because when I get factory-finish Harley parts at my own shop for custom work, they’re a bitch to take off.

lol I pretty much take everything off the tank and start from scratch most times. But then, the gas tanks of the jap bikes I’ve worked on (and that’s every manufacturer including others like Ducati and MV Agusta) seem to be done the same way.

When I paint helmets and put stickers on like the Arai sticker or whatever (though I never use stickers for anything else unless I’m using holograms or something like that) I will sometimes put a sticker on basecoats only if the basecoat is very smooth.

If it’s a metallic I don’t bother because it’s often just going to lift or the sticker will wrinkle and when air gets in when you clear it you’re screwed. But we’re talking about relatively flat stickers here for your bike, so either way should be fine.

topic 36480 Can vinyl decals go between the base coat and clear coat? (2005)

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Richard: Best advice? Clear coat before the graphics are placed. Why? Years ago paint was paint. Today we use Paint Systems and they depend on the substrate layers for proper adhesion and binding of the layers to complete the “system”. When/if you become tired of graphics that have been installed over just the base color there is a high risk that when the graphics are removed some of the base color may come off with the graphics because the base color might still be soft (base coats don’t harden unless catalyzed). The clear coat that should have been installed over the base color will bind to the base color and create a uniformly hardened paint surface. Graphics will be easier to remove from a clear coated surface. Do you have any way of knowing if the graphics will be resistant to the clear coat? Nothing would be worse than spending the required time and money to complete your body work, lay on the sealer, lay down the base coat of color, shoot a couple wet coats of clear, install the graphics then spray on some more clear just to watch your graphics wither, melt, distort, peel and/or otherwise bring you unwanted grief. Prove compatibility to yourself. Shoot a little color coat on a scrap fender, door, whatever. Then lay on some clear. Install a scrap of your graphic and shoot some more clear on top of the graphic. Wait a day or two until the clear has hardened to make sure the graphic will survive the clear coat and then proceed with caution on your project. A little pre-planning can save you a ton of trouble. Hope this helps.

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I had a gas tank with a clear coated decal once. The best solution is to sand the tank and spray flowable filler (a sprayable body filler for finishing bodywork) over the area with the decal. Lightly sand over the filler, briefly, because it is soft and will disappear easily. You almost don’t have to sand over it at all after spraying it on. Then paint it as usual and the decal will be gone without a trace!

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Removing decals under clear coat.I’ve got a motorcycle gas tank that has the decals clear coated over. Can someone tell me the best way to remove them with ruining the underlying paint?I thought about making the tank and wet sanding through the clear coat to the decal and trying to peel it off.

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I have a motorcycle tank that has a wonderful power coating finish and I wish to install harley decals on it and protect it with a clear coat. What type of paint should I use. I inquired at a automotive paint supply and they told me not to use automotive paint because it would get too hot. What should I use? Thank you!

I dont know what decals your trying to use but the factory does it like this:spray your base coat, apply the decal and bury it in the clear.If I actualy use decals in any paint job I do it like this:Spray base coats, clear it with a couple of coats.

Scuff the clear with 400 and wipe clean with grease and wax remover, lay the decals and use a scuff pad to lightly scuff the decal. Bury it in clear with at least four coats. Wet sand the clear with 1000 grit very carefully to remove the orange peel and knock down the edge of the decal line in the clear.

Re-wetsand the tank with 2000 grit to finish the surface for buffing (if you dont know how to use a buffer right, do it by hand) use the coarse rubbing compound and wash the tank, then use the polishing compound to shine it up.

Finaly use a glaze to make it look wet. If you do it right the paint will look like its under glass and have no visible defects from any angle of sight. BE CAREFUL!!!! if you pop thru the clear a lot of work is wasted.

Good luck and BTW if your trying to use a really big decal without breaks in it the clear will have a hard time sticking to the decal and tank and you might have a problem with it lifting later on. thats why I try to paint enough of it without decals and why the tank is the only piece that has the decals under the clear

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i wanna clear coat over my decals on my gas tank. can i just apply the decal and spray clear over it???? somebody told me if i wanted a factory finish i would need to spray clear on the tank, then sand where i want the decals, apply the decals and spray clear one more time.

how does the factory does it?

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