Vinyl Decals Installation

round stickers Vinyl Decals Installation

round stickers Vinyl Decals Installation

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Using scissors or a razor, cut away the peeled “liner” close to the long piece of masking tape that crosses the decal. Do not allow the scissors or razor to touch the decal as it may stick accidentally peeling the decal off the “pre-mask”.

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Depending on the temperature, wait between 30 minutes to an hour or more allowing the decal to dry and adhere securely to the surface.

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Remove all dirt, grease and/or wax from the surface you will be applying the decal to before you install your vinyl decal. This includes wax from car washes, turtle wax, rain-x, compound, etc. Your new vinyl decal will NOT adhere properly if you do not have a clean installation surface.

The most common way to install decals is the dry method. The dry method will insure that your vinyl decal stays adhered to your vehicle surface. This is because there is no chance of application fluid being trapped between the vinyl decal and the vehicle surface leading to peeling and/or water bubbles. The only disadvantage to the dry installation method is you have only one chance to do the installation right leaving no room for mistakes. Once the vinyl decal is applied to the vehicle surface, it can not be removed without damaging the vinyl. A lot of measuring and preparation is required to have a successful dry installation.

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Hi Tim,Thank you so much for sharing. I wanted to ask you about the part :They printed these decals on a huge inkjet printer/sign cutting machine made by Roland How can I get my design pre-cut like this – which kind of stores do this, and how does the machine actually cut the middle layer only?

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Don demonstrates and says “Don’t ever pull up on the cover paper. Always pull it off sideways at a sharp angle.” If the cover paper rips that’s okay as long as the decal underneath isn’t damaged.

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REMOVAL OF VINYL: If you decide to remove your vinyl in the future all you need to do is start to peel on the edge and slowly remove at a downward slanted angle.  Then use rubbing alcohol or goo gone to remove any sticky residue left behind.

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Now that the “pre-mask” is removed, do a visual check assuring all the vinyl decal is adhered to the surface. More then likely you will see small air bubbles. You can make a small incision into the vinyl with a razor and use your squeegee to push the air out. Most air bubbles will disappear in a few weeks. Your new vinyl decal is now installed! Please note if you live in a cold climate, be very careful when using an ice scraper as it can peel the viny if applied to a vehicle window for example.

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Thanks! I’ve been thinking of covering my laptop with contact paper, and this would really help with the air bubbles I was expecting to get.

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Here’s how the pros put decals on.Ever turn a nice decal into a wad of crap and wreck your paint job in the process?Learn the true secrets here. The same methods work with bumperstickers, contact paper, etc.Don, Dan, and Vincent bust out the masterful skills and put some major decals on the catamaran “Nalani”.They printed these decals on a huge inkjet printer/sign cutting machine made by Roland.The decals come attached to some heavy shiny paper with some thinner cover paper over them.So it’s a sandwich with three layers, decal in the middle.

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While one person holds the decal flat and slightly away from the surface, the other smooths it on from top to bottom.

Now that the “pre-mask” is removed, do a visual check assuring all the vinyl decal is adhered to the surface. More than likely you will see small air or water bubbles. You can make a small incision into the vinyl with a razor and use your squeegee to push the air or water out. Most air or water bubbles will disappear in a few weeks. Allow a few days in the hot sun to allow the decal to completely cure before washing or waxing. Your new vinyl decal is now installed! Please note if you live in a cold climate, be very careful when using an ice scraper as it can peel the vinyl if applied to a vehicle window for example.

Leave the decal attached to the wax paper. Face the decal with the tissue paper cover toward you. Tape the decal at the top edge using the biggest masking tape you can find. Don and Vincent are using foot wide masking tape. Don says “that tape is the hinge”.

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Raise the hinged ‘flap’, and begin to peel the “liner” off the decal (NOT THE PRE-MASK) exposing the adhesive side of the decal. Only peel the “liner” from the decal until you reach the masking tape that crosses the whole decal.

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Nalani is Don’s daughter, also the name of the boat. He poses for a photo with the finished masterpiece to send to her.

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Lift up the decal using the masking tape at the top as a hinge. Reach underneath and peel off the heavy paper that covers the adhesive side of the decal. Be very careful now, keep the decal flat and straight and don’t touch it to the surface yet. Don’t do this on a windy day or with people throwing crap at you.

Remove all dirt, grease and/or wax from the surface before you install your vinyl decal. This includes wax from car washes, turtle wax, rain-x, compound, etc. Your new vinyl decal will NOT adhere properly if you do not have a clean installation surface.

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1. Do not install your vinyl decal in direct sunlight. It is recommended you install your vinyl decal in a garage or building. 2. Room and installation surface temperature is recommended to be between 10°C (50°F) and 20°C (68°F) to reduce stretching or other un-desired effects. 3. Do not store your vinyl decal in direct sunlight.

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Inspect your new vinyl decal for any shipping damages. Any damage incurred during shipping must be reported to us within two business days. Using a squeegee on a table, press firmly over the whole decal assuring the pre-mask is properly stuck to the vinyl decal. Once finished, place your decal on the surface (pre-mask up and liner on surface)

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1. Do not install your vinyl decal in direct sunlight. It is recommended you install your vinyl decal in a garage or building. 2. Room and installation surface temperature is recommended to be between 10°C (50°F) and 20°C (68°F) to reduce stretching or other un-desired effects. 3. This method is not recommended for interior installs (on walls for example).  Please use your judgement when considering the wet installation method. 3. Do not store your vinyl decal in direct sunlight.

the soap… it doesn’t affect the adhesive? How does it work???

Dirt under the decal will cause damage in later steps. Dan carefully wipes the surface with a wet cloth. When it’s clean enough it will gleam like in the second photo.

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– Installation squeegee (obtainable in most hardware stores) – Application Fluid in Spray Bottle (Mixture of 500mL (1/2 quart) of water, 250mL (1/4 quart) of 99% rubbing alcohol and 1 teaspoon of liquid soap) – Glass cleaner (non AMMONIA BASED) – Paper towel – Measuring tape or ruler.

One of the petals tore off the flower along with the cover paper. Dan positions and applies it to line up with the rest of the flower using the same techniques we’ve seen earlier.

After rubbing it on by hand use a stiff squeegee to get the bubbles out.

DO NOT ALLOW THE STICKY PART OF THE DECAL TO TOUCH THE ANYTHING.

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i can do make decals if anyone needs work done i have the dragknife setup so i cant screenprint but i can do vinyl lettering and designs i can be contacted thru my facebook business page i have a few things ive done posted so if anyone is interested go to facebook.com/lowsgraphics

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Place the decal (adhesive side down) on to the surface. While the decal is wet, you can measure and re-adjust the decal without damaging it. Once in place, go over the decal with the squeegee with firm strokes pushing the application fluid out and assuring the decal is adhering to the surface. Repeat this a few times until you remove most of the application fluid between the decal and the surface. Try not to move the decal during this step

For die-cut (cut out) decals, there are two types of installation methods and both have their advantages and disadvantages.

Once you received your order, your decal will consist of three layers as illustrated below.  Please be aware that depending on the type of decal you have purchased, and the surface it is going on, the following procedures may not be the proper application instructions.  Any questions should be directed to a Decal Doctorz sales consultant by clicking HERE.

– Installation squeegee (obtainable in most hardware stores) – Masking tape – Glass cleaner (non AMMONIA BASED) – Paper towel – Measuring tape or ruler. – Scissors or Razor

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You can also peel the heavy sheet off while applying the decal to the surface. Don and Vincent demonstrate.

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Place a long piece of masking tape parallel to the current piece of masking tape that crosses the decal on the decal side that you just adhered to the surface. Then remove the original long piece of masking tape that crossed the decal. This will secure the decal so you can peel off the final piece of “liner”. Also remove the small corner pieces of masking tape. Slowly peel the final piece of “liner” off exposing the adhesive side of the decal. Once again do not allow the sticky part of the decal to touch the surface.

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Using your squeegee and starting in the middle where your masking tape crosses the decal, begin to apply the final sticky side of the decal to the surface. Use horizontal strokes to apply the decal equally. Continue smoothing out the decal from top to bottom with long horizontal strokes assuring the decal is securely adhered to the surface.

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Using your squeegee and starting in the middle where your masking tape crosses the decal, begin to apply the sticky side of the decal to the surface. Use horizontal strokes to apply the decal equally. Continue smoothing out the decal from top to bottom with long horizontal strokes assuring the decal is securely adhered to the surface.

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This is a major trick. Dan is spraying the surface with soapy water.That way the decal doesn’t stick in place immediately. They can reposition it if necessary.It makes it possible to to squeegee out any wrinkles or bubbles.The soap and water dries in a few minutes and the decal is firmly affixed.Vincent says: “use 5 or 10% max liquid dish soap mixed with water, it doesn’t really matter what kind of soap it is.”This method would also work with window tint gels.

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This is great! I’ve been planning to put some contact paper designs on my walls, my laptop and lots of other stuff.. and knowing me, I’d end up with hundreds of bubbles! Thanks for the tut.

This is just a quick and simple guide to help people insure they install their decals on a good clean surface so that they last the longest and look the best.  Please note I am not the best writer, I was a math geek in school and not the greatest at English.

  So that said any typos I am sorry and just let me know! -Mike   STEP 1: CLEAN THAT AREA GOOD! First make sure you have a dry place and no wind to install your decal. Make sure to prep the area, this is the most important part of installing a decal!  If you put your decal or sticker on a dirty surface, it will just pick that dirt and grim up like a lint roller does your shirt, those aren’t so sticky after you use them are they!  So lets make sure the area is nice and clean so that it can adhere to where you are going to place it.

You can use soap and water, rubbing alcohol, or any other fast drying cleaner.  My favorite is rubbing alcohol since it dries by itself within seconds and leaves no residue behind.  On that note, do NOT use anything like windex or other household spray cleaners that leave a residue behind or oily substance, that defeats the purpose and will cause your decal/sticker not to adhere to the best of it capabilities.

  STEP 2: DECIDE AND PEEL! After you have cleaned your car, you now need to decide where you want to center your decal in the area you cleaned.  I use a measuring tape to measure from different spots on the car to make sure I have it exactly where I want it and that it will not turn out crooked.

  When I measure I use a piece of masking tape to mark the measurements, normally four for left/right/top/bottom.  Then I have a some what boxed area to force me to place the decal where it should go.

Be aware after you stick it, you might can not undo it and use it again, since it can separate the design or text from each other. After you decide where you want it, go ahead and start to peel your decal back, if it doesn’t stick to the transfer tape the first pull, replace the transfer tape and push it together with your fingers or use a credit card to press together.

  STEP 3: PLACE THAT DECAL! So you cleaned your area and also decided how and where you are going to place your new decal or sticker and you made sure your decal can peel apart easily.    FOR SMALLER DECALS – Now fully peel the decal off the backing and hold it on the tips of the masking/transfer tape.

  Try not to touch the back of the decal itself since it could leave dirt on your decals back side. You should have each hand holding the furthest corners from each other and keep it tight so that the decal does not fold in on itself.

  Place one end of the decal down and then smooth it out to the other end till the decal is fully placed.   FOR BIGGER DECALS – Do not fully remove the backing on your decal.  You will want to remove about 1/3 of the backing and start by applying that 1/3 of the decal to the car.

  Then slowly pull more of the backing off while at the same time apply the decal to the car until you have fully installed the decal.  Either work left to right or right to left, which ever you feel best doing.

Don’t forget you can always buy a $1 spray bottle at your dollar store, put ONE small drop of soap in it and fill with water and shake.  Then LIGHTLY (I MEAN LIGHTLY)  spray the area and then apply the decal.

  This is only suggest for bigger decals or decals that you need to be in a precise area.   STEP 3: THE HARDEST PART! Waiting… yes this is the hardest part, because most people are so impatient that they can’t wait and they mess up the decal by removing the transfer tape too early! The best way to allow your decal to dry is out in the sun, having it in the shade or in a cool place will only make it take longer.

  If you used a mist of soapy water when installing your decal and do not let the sun dry it, then it will take a very long time before it adheres correctly, since nothing is there to remove the water and dry the decal to the surface.

Do not try and rush this buy using a heat gun, you can melt the transfer tape and vinyl and when you peel it, it could cause the decal to stretch with the transfer tape.  Again the best way is the sun.

Finally just give the decal 30 minutes before you remove the transfer tape, go inside and eat lunch.  By the time your done you should be able to go back outside and finish your decal and be in a good mood from that great lunch and nice cold sweet tea!  If your decal is still not sticking, make sure you got it in the sun and it is warm out side, and just give it a bit longer.

 

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Oh, this is fabulous! I was wanting to put a white or silvery decal on the roof of my very hot black van. It is like an oven getting into the flippn thing in the summer. (Texas Gulf Coast gets real hot) I may look into making my own decals.

Caution! Do not use ammonia based cleaner. It will out gas for a couple of weeks and create bubbles under your vinyl decal.

The alternative method of installing your vinyl decal is the wet installation method. The advantage for using the wet installation method is you can re-position the decal on your vehicle surface multiple times to get a desired position as long as the decal and surface is still wet. The disadvantage is that if you do not get all the application fluid out from underneath the decal and surface, your decal could peel and/or have water bubbles. We recommend the dry installation method however we have installation instructions if you prefer the wet installation method.

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Remove the final piece of masking tape. Go over the decal with the squeegee, with increasingly harder strokes assuring the decal is securely adhered to the surface. Slowly begin peeling the “pre-mask” covering the decal. Keep a close eye while removing the pre-mask making sure no part of the decal is still attached to the “pre-mask”.

Vincent squeegees out the last tiny bubbles. They spit soapy water when they exit the edge. Don yells “hey!”. Vincent says “It’s not bodily fluids” in his mix of all the world’s accents.

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I think they cut and pull off the stuff they don’t want before sticking the cover paper on there. I’ve seen a vinyl cutter in action, the business I think is called a “drag knife” and it’s just an exacto blade on a swivel. The backing is pretty hard to cut through, so you can actually do it pretty easily by hand with an exacto blade if the place you get the decals from doesn’t offer the service. Can any readers recommend a service bureau?

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Place pieces of masking tape on top of the decal “pre-mask” and surface to hold the decal in place. Measure with a ruler or measuring tape to make sure your decal is properly lined up. Once in place, put a long piece of tape across the decal in the center as shown below. Remove the masking tape from one side of the decal and vehicle surface creating a hinged ‘flap’.

Wish I’d read this before I tried to apply heat blocking film to a window. Now that was frustrating. Thanks.

This decal has separate pieces and it’s going onto a curved surface. That’s easier if you cut it into sections. That way you can deal with one area at a time. Don wields the big scissors.

Have a great day and I hope you love the wonders of what vinyl can do!  It is so easy to use and remove compared to paint, not to mention most of the time it cost less too! – Mike (from JustDecalit) ———————————————————- ———————————————————-  

DO NOT ALLOW THE STICKY PART OF THE DECAL TO TOUCH THE SURFACE YOU ARE APPLYING TO.

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Once the decal is dry, start peeling off the “pre-mask” from the decal and surface. If the decal starts to peel off with the “pre-mask”, re-apply decal with squeegee (Step 2), and wait about 30 minutes before attempting to remove the “pre-mask” again.

Use application fluid to generously spray the surface area where your decal will be installed on. Make sure the surface area is completely sprayed down. Then generously spray application fluid onto the adhesive side of the decal.

I would put a bunch of rubbing alcohol in your application fluid.

Inspect your new vinyl decal for any shipping damages. Any damage incurred during shipping must be reported to us within two business days. Using a squeegee on a table, press firmly over the whole decal assuring the pre-mask is properly stuck to the vinyl decal. Once finished, flip the decal over (pre-mask down) and slowly peel off the “liner” exposing the decals adhesive side.

My husband has been asking me to put vinyl decals on his truck for a few weeks now, and I have been coming up with excuse after excuse to avoid it because I don’t want to mess it up. The design is quite large so cutting it into sections sounds like a great idea! I can’t believe I haven’t thought of that before! Also, the tip about spraying it with soapy water is great! It will be nice to know that I can reposition it if necessary! http://www.vitalsignsak.com/graphics

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Is Dan really praying? Check step 4, little typo I used the soap and water method to apply decals to R/C planes and boats – it gives you a little leeway because you can move the piece around before you squeegee out the solution below it. I never thought o using it on a decal this big though, good tip, I’ll remember it next time I do something like this!

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