Clear Over Stickers

January 25, 2019 4:58 am by maryrosh
Removing clear coated stickers from a motorcycle tank youtube
If you are wondering about using clearcoat over decals check this link clear coat
Clear Over Stickers

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I have a little project going on with some wheel center caps. I am applying a sticker to the center cap, and I want it to have a little durability and not peel. So, I was thinking of layering some clearcoat spray over the sticker after it’s applied to the cap.

My thought is to apply several light layers in the hopes that the sticker wouldn’t peel — meaning, not orange peel.I would deal with any orange peeling separately by wet sanding and polishing.Has anyone used clearcoat over stickers? Another type of coating?

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A trick to use when using decals from a pro painter thats a very good friend of mine. (He’s gotten more best of show awards than nearly anyone except Barris possibly )When you put the stickers or whatever on (this also goes for shitty basecoats from cans) make your first few coats VERY light.

Just fog them on. Let them dry in between coats. Then put the wet coats on. If you do it RIGHT you wont need to sand of buff because it will have flowed out like glass. It’s not easy to get it that way but it can be done.

Bugs were my biggest problem doing it in a open garage.Here’s proof. I painted this in my garage and it has never been sanded or buffed or waxed for that matter. And these are old photos I scanned in my comp with a scanner I found in the TRASH!!! Trust me I ain’t shitting.

If you want it to look good do it right and no buffing is nessesary or needed. Buffing only gives you another way to fuck things up…. Granted it might look a tiny bit better but why chance it? Burn through on a edge and you start from scratch.

..Scroll down to the Yamaha RD 400 Daytona Spl. Decals made with cheap clear self adheasive got at Kinkos for less than $2. Made on my Dad’s laser printer from a photo I took with a Nikon pocket camera scanned into Dad’s comp then printed.…d.php?t=262950

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Have not specifically tried clear coating over stickers, but if I were going it, I would lay down a coat of adhesion promoter first. Also, if you try to go light with the clear, it will dry dull. Is this going to be a rattle can job or do you have access to automotive paint equipment and products?

i wanna clear coat over my decals on my gas tank. can i just apply the decal and spray clear over it???? somebody told me if i wanted a factory finish i would need to spray clear on the tank, then sand where i want the decals, apply the decals and spray clear one more time.

how does the factory does it?

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I’ve done a couple of different projects where stickers were topped with a clear coating. The first was about a dozen oars for my daughters’ high school rowing team. They wanted the school’s mascot affixed to the oar blades and after researching several methods, it turned out doing it this way was the least expensive and most durable.

I printed the mascot on full-sheet sticker paper with a color laser printer, then cut it out along the image’s lines. Next I stuck it to an oar blade and applied Deft clear lacquer to the entire blade and left to dry.

I applied 3 coats total and they turned out fantastic. Deft is self-leveling and very forgiving – while it’s wet. Once dried, it’s completely waterproof and can be used on just about any material. The other project I did was on a trailer owned by the softball league I used to be involved with.

Their equipment trailer had the league’s logo emblazoned on the sides. Someone on then Board decided it would be nice if the logo was ringed by the logos of all the softball products they used as well as the league’s sponsors.

I was able to get stickers from all the companies. After organizing them and deciding where they would be placed, I stuck them to the trailer. I then sprayed the trailer with automotive urethane (3 coats) and it turned out awesome.

Very durable and the UV inhibitors in the urethane prevented the stickers from fading and bleaching out. Whichever method you choose, it’s vital that you wait 24 hours after applying the stickers before applying the clear coat (unless you use a water-based clear coat which I don’t recommend).

The adhesive on the sticker is water-based which will cause all kinds of application problems if the adhesive is not completely dry before applying the clear coat. If you want it to last for any length of time and have a fair amount of durability, you should use automotive urethane.

Good luck with your project!

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what he said…cept…make sure that the person who cut the decals for you used Exterior Grade vinyl. Interior grade vinyl can actually gas-out when in sunlight. This can cause gasses under the clearcoat to push up and actually delaminate the clear from the vinyl making an ugly damn mess.

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I cleared over these “Mopar” letters two years ago. So far so good. I used automotive grade clear by Rustoleum. I applied 2 medium coats. Good luck

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I dont know what decals your trying to use but the factory does it like this:spray your base coat, apply the decal and bury it in the clear.If I actualy use decals in any paint job I do it like this:Spray base coats, clear it with a couple of coats.

Scuff the clear with 400 and wipe clean with grease and wax remover, lay the decals and use a scuff pad to lightly scuff the decal. Bury it in clear with at least four coats. Wet sand the clear with 1000 grit very carefully to remove the orange peel and knock down the edge of the decal line in the clear.

Re-wetsand the tank with 2000 grit to finish the surface for buffing (if you dont know how to use a buffer right, do it by hand) use the coarse rubbing compound and wash the tank, then use the polishing compound to shine it up.

Finaly use a glaze to make it look wet. If you do it right the paint will look like its under glass and have no visible defects from any angle of sight. BE CAREFUL!!!! if you pop thru the clear a lot of work is wasted.

Good luck and BTW if your trying to use a really big decal without breaks in it the clear will have a hard time sticking to the decal and tank and you might have a problem with it lifting later on. thats why I try to paint enough of it without decals and why the tank is the only piece that has the decals under the clear

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Hm…I’m not sure about Japanese factory methods, but as a pinstriper for the factory Harley-Davidson bikes (I handle certain kinds of custom projects, mostly concerned with the limited-edition Fat Boys) I’m privy to every aspect of the painting process.

When decals are laid over the gas tanks the base coats are already cleared and the clear is glossy. The decals are applied directly over the glossy cured clear to ensure maximum adhesion and then the entire tank is scuffed before re-clearing.

When the tanks come to me they don’t have decals on, I pinstripe them and send them off to the decal department. This method seems to work, because when I get factory-finish Harley parts at my own shop for custom work, they’re a bitch to take off.

lol I pretty much take everything off the tank and start from scratch most times. But then, the gas tanks of the jap bikes I’ve worked on (and that’s every manufacturer including others like Ducati and MV Agusta) seem to be done the same way.

When I paint helmets and put stickers on like the Arai sticker or whatever (though I never use stickers for anything else unless I’m using holograms or something like that) I will sometimes put a sticker on basecoats only if the basecoat is very smooth.

If it’s a metallic I don’t bother because it’s often just going to lift or the sticker will wrinkle and when air gets in when you clear it you’re screwed. But we’re talking about relatively flat stickers here for your bike, so either way should be fine.

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I used VHT (high temp) when I painted my calipers. I bought and replaced the factory stickers on them, so I cleared over them. Worked great

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